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You got me to buy the a1 mini and now I just ordered the P1s! I’m going broke! 😂 Here’s what happened. I kept regretting not buying the AMS lite. And now I didn’t want to pay $250 for it plus it takes up too much space but manually changing the colors mid print was driving me crazy loading unloading loading… So I gave in and bought the P1S combo! It’ll be here Tuesday. 😂

I see that you use elegoo filament. How do you like it? Have you had any problems with it?

Can you still use Bambu lab spools rfid?

I've been searching for this and it looks that fits perfect on the ams, I'd like to see more upgrades like this one ! Great video !

Thank you for sharing and explaining your experiences. I was thinking about it, but now i will get one. Also your hint, that PCBWay do 3D prints. This is perfect, as i am not able to print the large parts on my A1 mini. What type of infill would you suggest to print this parts? PCWWay offers 20%, 40%, 60%, ...

This was a good video. I appreciate how you showed stuff that you’re actually using vs just going down a list on makers world or something like that

Awesome, this is one of the reasons why i love 3D printing, you can just make functional stuff :-)

I would love content with the oter bambu lab printers if you have some we all love your content

Can you please tell me how many of each spool did you need for both sides

Came for the review. Stayed for the cute little ant.

This will not work. Silicagel need to be replaced and regenerated every day. You can not dry filament if you don't warm it up to 50-70 degrees of Celsius.

Plate 7 ..i se You use only 1 braket..other 2 no. Where do You install other 2 ?

Better to order from Aliexpress instead of Amazon, the price much cheaper from there.

Very nice video, thanks a lot! Already printed the cable clip, poop reflector and bin. Now i printed the handle and the spool relocation. But unfortunately i can't fix the grey spool holder to the handle, because the screws don't fit in the holes. I don't think there is screw thread inside the holes?

That drop was wild! Gotta try it out. Any problems with extruding?

Great video! How do you remove the sensor to replace the battery? 🤔

Nice video. I've had the Bambu Al Combo for a while now and love it.

New subscriber here in Sierra Vista, Arizona. Great info. Thanks.

I would recommend using ASA for the car stuff. It's got similar thermal properties to ABS but it has less UV Sensitivity

Thanks for the video! I could NOT find a video about it before I printed Supergrapher's AMS Lite dry box. But I'm so glad I did. I was amazed at how precisely everything fit together! It would be great if it were a bit more airtight, but for now I'm very happy with mine except for having to recharge my desiccant a bit more frequently here in San Diego. Another video idea: I watched a video about recharging desiccant in an air fryer. I didn't want to put my desiccant in my kitchen oven or microwave, so I was looking for a dedicated MWO but they're not very small. The 2-qt air fryer is pretty small, so I got one. Cheers!

This is exactly what i need for my A1 mini. I see there is a pront profile for the mini but its basically just been sliced yo pieces which will need to be glued or taped together. Not ideal. I hope the designer makes a better profile for the mini.

This upgrade is amazing bro!! I strongly need to do that! 👏👏👏👏👏👏

Supergrapher did a great job on this iterative design! Using one of his previous designs and it still works great.

Awesome man!

Is the storage box made of pla or petg

The organizer we all need, unknowingly 😂

Greetings from norway... where 60% is low humidity...

I had a few issues with this: 1. My spools were getting stuck from time to time and causing prints to stop 2. It's harder to know your filament levels 3. It's harder to put new filaments 4. It didn't really do much of a difference in my print quality (I use only PLA). At the end I have decided to remove it

Google humidity in Arizona or anywhere in the US.

You need two more brackets. The bottom of the unit also accepts them.

You could simply build an enclosure for the whole system. 😊

I'm gunna need some wide bois for my 50' hdmi lol

nicely made video , although it was not meant as a tutorial i would be able to put that together with how you explained it . happy to subscribe!

Great video and perfect timing! My A1 combo is being delivered today. Not only does it look like this will work well but it I think it makes the whole setup have a better appearance. Also, I was happy to see you tear the desiccant open as I use dry beads. Great video. I will print this!

Never even thought about the humidity being an issue, but where I live there's currently 76% humidity outside so it seems like a great thing

Two questions if you don't mind 1 - How difficult is it to get the spools out when changing? 2 - Does the RIFD still read the spool tags?

Wow you already got a sponsor. Congrats!

How many spools of filament did it take to print the entire enclosure?

I'm literally printing out the last part of mine right now.

Funny, I was testing 3 different high speed PLAs available on Amazon and Elegoo Rapid PLA+ (grey) was the price-performance winner for me 😄(12,6€ or 14,0$/kg for a 4kg pack) Here my calibration results on the A1-Mini if anyone is interested (all filaments pre-dryed): Temperature tower: I settled at 235°C from the resistance I got from pushing in the little spikes with a pen (I like to print hotter at higher flow rates to compensate for decreased layer adhesion). Layer adhesion was second best. From 210 to 250°C nothing looked bad. All overhangs perfect. Bridging was as good as perfect at every temperature. Max Flowrates: 30mm³/s @235°C 34,6mm³ @260°C Flow Ratio: 1.01 (did the calibration test with high flow rate, so use 1.00 or .099 if you notice over extrusion) Retraction: 0,3mm sufficient Pressure advance: unnecessary with A1's flow calibration. After that I ordered 4kg more and tried using them out of the box without drying. Optical results (prints) are not as good now. Need to dry them again. Flow rate winner was Polymaker Polysonic PLA with 37mm³/s at 250°C. All overhangs perfect. Bridges 210-230°C good, then little sags, at 250° good again. Very soft/weak material. Also the most expensive. Stiffest material & best layer adhesion was Eryone HS PLA+: 33mm³/s@235°C. All overhangs perfect. Almost no bridging even at 235°C. But progressively worsening bridging from there. Not unacceptable, just the worst bridging of the 3 tested

Love my ultimate AMS lite enclosure! Although, I just saw another option posted on Facebook this morning so I may have to try that one too 🤣 🤣

hi-Grah-mitter! Great video!

Great video! Just found this enclosure for the AMS Lite last night, i guess imma print it now lol

Great job finding that model and showing it to us! My AMS is collecting dust, since I exclusively print from Dryboxes now, even PLA (you can guess why 😏) So I was disappointed that I never really got to use the AMS to it's full potential and I was just waiting for a good Drybox-conversion to come along! So I might give that one a try, thanks alot! ...but wait... ...since you have a "Drybox" too now... 😏 Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try. Unfortunately flexibles do not work on the AMS Lite though, so you need a different drybox 🤣 (look for a second comment regarding that at some later date) They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than PETG, ABS or any other material, since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff. So flexibles are at the other end of that property spectrum. If you never try them, you could potentially miss out on 50% of the fun Jokes aside, on my A1 Minis alone I've used flexibles for 3 upgrades: Extruder cable straightener, a poop bucket mounted on the purge wiper (printed in flexibles for less rattling noise) and a double Nozzle holder (same reason) that perfectly fits in the right-sided hole of the protrusion that the filament cutter lever pushes against. For starters I'd recommend going with a small 500g spool of 95A hardness or harder. Note: I have 2 A1-Minis. Tested flexibles on a 3rd actually. Two A1-Minis printed them like a god, the third one could barely squirt out any flexible material all. Under-extruded horribly. I still need to find the main issue and will probably write a ticket if I can't figure it out. But so far reducing the drag on the filament path helped a lot with the extruder being able to gripping and pushing the filament better. (500g instead of heavy 1kg spool, using ball bearings instead of hanging the spool on a rough printed rod and shortening the PFTE tube as much as possible that feed from a drybox directly into the extruder) So be aware that your mileage may vary. I hope though it was just bad luck on my end and that A1-Mini in question got shipped with some uncommon hardware defect like a weaker extruder spring or similar...

This instantly nakes the AMS lite a lot more interesting and valuable! 🤩 Thanks for the showcase

@Jet L Here some extensive tips from personal experience on how to further increase bed adhesion and things good to know: -) Wash your build plate with brand quality dish soap (not the cheap stuff) after a few prints. Wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol is sufficient for most times but it tends to smear fats around instead of fully dissolving them. -) Use microfiber cloth. Paper and cotton towels leave tiny fibers on the build plate which can (almost negligibly) reduce bed adhesion due to them being like dust particles. Also cotton, paper etc. cloths are abrasive and can scratch the nice "holographic" build plates (they are cool, give them a try :). -) Was an eye-opener for me personally: (Any brand of) specialized glue for 3D printing. (NOT glue stick or hair spray, they reduce adhesion). Especially once you get into materials that warp, this will make your prints SO much more likely to be successful. They hold your part down in the corners like they are fused together with the build plate. Once the plate cools down the glue releases. Awesome. (I prefer 3DLAC Plus as small pump spray, to save space. Also I can refill it into even smaller pump spray bottles. Not a fan of the huge pressurized spray bottles that also make a mess. Additionally I use the touch application version (looks like a stick) when I don't want a spray-mess on the printer, when leaving the build plate on (also it's cheaper than the green Bambu stick). I ALWAYS use 3D printing glue when I print something long or important. -) Smooth PEI plates have higher bed adhesion. Textured PEI plates are mostly sufficient and are in many cases better for crazy sticky materials. Also they are more convenient, since the print releases easier once the plate has cooled down. But the overall bed adhesion of (hot) textured PEI is slightly worse. That is also why it needs to run 5°C hotter than the smooth PEI sheet (check out the parameters in Bambu Studio). The hotter PEI gets, the better it sticks to most filaments. -) Use a brim for tall prints, small footprints and/or sharp corners. The "Mouse Ear" option can save you a lot of work in post processing. (Check out Slant3D's 4min video: "Stop Using Brims, Do This Instead") This option is available in Orca Slicer, so I recommend using it for that alone. Also its basically 99% the same UI as Bambu Studio, just has slightly more options and novel techniques tend to get implemented faster there. -) Increasing extrusion width for the first layer (squeezing out fatter lines) can increase pressure and thus the material might bond better with the bed. Also it slightly increases surface area / reduces number of crevices. -) Similarly, reducing the first layer thickness might result in more application pressure, but I would not play around with that and stick to 50% nozzle diameter. -) Increasing bed temperature (and/or melting temperature for the first layer) can also increase bed adhesion. But you need to keep the plate at that hotter temperature for the whole print for it to keep the effect. -) Reducing first layer printing speed might also help, but honestly... I do the opposite on my A1-Minis and run fine with it :D -) Excellent point from you: Reducing printing speed has nothing to do with layer adhesion initially, BUT when printing fast the printer starts extruding inconsistently (makes waves, blobs, leaves residue) and when the print nozzle rushes over the part it scrapes over those structures and can knock the print of the build plate if bed adhesion was insufficient. -) In some cases rafts might help (ever had the need to use one yet). -) Ive also heard roughening up or "refreshing" build plates with sand paper can help adhesion, but I haven't tried that out myself. And finally The glue stick misconception: It is not used to make prints stick better! Glue stick is meant to create an interface layer between bed and print, so the print is able to release at all, if you printed with a crazy sticky material like TPU or PETG. In a sense you can say: glue stick's purpose in 3D printing is to take bed adhesion down a notch in a controlled way. Personally developed the following application method: Do not smear glue stick on the build plate directly like thick paste, like you see it in every video out there. It makes a mess, is a very inconsistent application method, you use a ton of glue stick unnecessarily, and it makes the thickness of the build plate vary (if you care). Instead spray the build plate with isopropyl alcohol first where the print will be. Spray a good amount, so that it does not evaporate in like 10 seconds. Now take the glue stick and gently glide with it over the surface. (This was not possible before.) With this you can now regulate the amount applied in a very fine way, since one pass leaves like 1/30 the amount of glue stick it would normally. The more often you pass over the same place now, the more glue stick gets dissolved in the alcohol and subsequently layer adhesion gets reduced in fractions of a level with each pass (up to some point). You could make a video about that method, since I've nobody seen using that so far. (Only once you tried it, verified it for yourself that it works and got a lot of experience of course, don't parrot tips just because they sound plausible). Also I've made my own "glue-stick spray" where I use 80% alcohol, 20% distilled water (I figured "since glue stick is water soluble") and dissolved roughly some 5% glue stick in that, trying to rip and squeeze it apart in the solution. Took a while. Heat helped. Doesn't spray well (squirts one jet) but it gets a bit higher concentrated solution on the plate faster. I use one finger to distribute the solution on the build plate then, since I intend to get reduced layer adhesion anyway when using it. First I thought of getting a silicone brush or something similar but turns out the things you have "on hand" are often the easiest to use 😄

Thank you for the video. I am not sure how air tight this enclosure is and if it really helps keeping out all the humidity, but for sure a good dust protection.

This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. 🎉